Journey to Annarpurna Base
Camp (ABC)
Prologue
As our journey to ABC ended, we didn’t
realize the magnitude or the devastation caused by Cyclone Hudhud. Which has strike the Annapurna Range
especially in the northerly part. It was
until we have reached our hotel in Pokhara when internet was available that we
started to receive concerned messages from home, that it dawned upon us the
seriousness of the nature disaster.
The news was bleak even when we reached
home on the 17th Oct 2014, for we still hear of rescue effort that
was still ongoing.
Though we were not directly at the blunt of
the severe storm; we still encounter 30 hours of rainfall. We reached ABC on the 12th Oct
(Sunday), and started our descent the following day. It was on the 13th Oct late
afternoon, that the weather started to turn foul. On the 14th Oct, we sensed that we
were not able to wait out the rain, decided to trek in the rain to Chhumlong
and then to Jinhu. While trekking in the
rain, I noticed that the thunder can rumble continuously for more than 30
seconds, and I found this to be unusual.
It was only when we returned to the hotel, that I realized that we were
fortunate to escape the wrath of the cyclone.
The recent news from the government of
Nepal said that this disaster could have been prevented, if there was an early
warning system and procedure in place. Hopefully, as declared by the Nepalese
Prime Minister that the government will be putting in place such a system,
trekking in Nepal will become safer.
Our condolences to the families members who
have lost their loved ones in this storm.
ABC
of the Trip
Recording this journey to ABC, I have the
good fortune of meeting and talking to various Nepalese of different trades,
and have gotten their perspectives regarding their lives in Nepal. Apparently, there is very little welfare and
support coming from the government; and that self reliance is a norm for all
Nepalese.
I was also told that in Nepal, the 3 main
industries are
- Agriculture
- Tourism
- Power Generation
However, Nepal is still not able to
self-sustain in agriculture, and still has to buy produce from across the
country.
Tourism is highly dependent on season; and
with the Everest disaster earlier this year, and now this Annapurna incident,
it can dampen this industry.
Thus left with the hydropower generation,
which apparently for the sake of the revenue, the people are deprived of
continuous supply and has to live with the constant interruption to their power
grids.
During this trekking season, most of the
porters and guides will have to earn enough during this season to cover for the
other lax months. Otherwise, they will
face much financial difficulty during those lean months.
Sadly, despite injury or sickness, most of
these porters will want to strike out during this period. Case in point, in our group of porters, we
have an individual who has an infection on his foot. Thankfully, we have medical members on our
team with the right kit to render appropriate assistance to him. This is just one incident, but how many more
out there, we will never know.
(Interestingly, in our EBC trek, we also
have a porter with infection issue)
Thus penning my thoughts and reflection of
this journey, with my heartfelt salute to the Nepalese people, who despite all
odds can still smile at the challenges that they continuously face.
A – Attitude
of the Nepalese People
This hardy and resilient people receives my
accolade for their “can do” spirit. Just
like the asphalt road which is mired in pock holed and is narrow; yet the
people has learnt to “give and take”, in order for vehicles to flow. Likewise in their daily living, they have also
learn to “give and take” to survive.
Whenever opportunity strikes, they will somehow determine a course of
direction to eke out a living. And at
the same time, they provide support for one another, be it the sharing of food
or load. Their constant smile is a great
reminder that all obstacles are just temporal.
On the mountain, with undulating steps and
paths, only the human and the quadruped animals will be able to negotiate the
many steps and rocks found here. Thus
the economy of the mountain relies heavily on the backs of the human and
animals.
The weight that a typical Nepalese can
carry is astounding. In terms of “body
weight to load” ratio, they could easily achieve close to ONE!
Nepal literally runs on the back of her
people.
I doubt the Nepalese has adolescent
problem! At a young tender age, they will
be required to assist in the home, and to bring in income for the family. There is no distraction for throwing
tantrums; eyeing the latest pop idols fashion and whiling away idle time. However, this can come with a price on their
education!
Despite the odd which is against them, and
having very little welfare from the centre government; they still demonstrate
that hardiness and resilience that we hardly see in a developed nation,
especially in my home country.
B - Beauty of the Land
Nepal can be broken up into 3 regions
- ·
Mountainous (above the tree
lines)
- ·
Hilly
- ·
Plain
Many tourists come to see and trek the
mountain routes, for the beauty of the mountains. And the different seasons of different lighting casting on the mountains invoke special feeling to the beholders.
Beside the mountains, there are much flora
and fauna. There are myriads of insects
especially moths even at this high altitude.
A trip to the toilet at night where the light tends to shine
continuously, attracts many moths. Thus
a trip to the toilet for me must be accompany with a camera!
Angiosperm
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| Daisy like flowers |
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| Beans |
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| Unknown Fruit |
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| This may not be an angiosperm! |
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| Cultivated for liquor making |
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| The "Buddha Hand" Fruit |
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| Anthocyanin loaded leaves |
Found this narcotic plant growing in one of the pot in the lodge that we stay!
Recognised the leaf pattern and confirm by the lodge owner that this is marijuana!
Avian
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| Big Fat Domesticated Jungle Fowls |
Reptilian
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| A type of Skink |
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| Possible a species of Changeable Lizard |
Lepidoptera
What is the key difference between moth and butterfly>
Look at those antennas, moth tends to be more intricate than butterfly.
However, this is not necessary the rule.
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| Beautiful wing pattern - with overlapping wings |
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| Notice the second moth antennae - extremely furry! |
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| Moth with Fur Coat! |
Special Moths
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| Is it by design that the wings are split - not too sure sure how it can fly! |
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| Again a very unusual specimen - what are those appendages beside the legs? |
Others
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| Cave Centipede - unfortunately partially trampled but was still very much alive. When I went to look for it again, it has disappeared. |
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| Plenty of this big bug! From its proboscis, it looks like some kind of predatory bug that prey on other bugs! Remind me of Assassin Bug! |
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| Cicada |
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| This looks like a Lantern Fly (not too sure) |
C – The Climb to ABC
Having attempted EBC, ABC should be a much
easier trek to handle. That was what I
thought, after all, it was lower and we don’t have to fly to the most dangerous
airport in the world.
Well I was wrong. The route of ABC is basically full of
steps. There were less suspension
bridges, which means that one has to walk down through the many steps to the
river, and crosses the bridges, before climbing the many steps again. And this will be played out many times in
this journey.
However, when I ponder the weight and the numerous stones that make those steps, I cannot help but be bewildered at the Nepalese forefathers who have to bear the weight of those stones, the sweats that have gone into the labouring to form those steps for us to walk today. Amazing effort, like the rest of the ancient wonders. Stones by stones, rocks by rocks, day after day, till today.
For us, the journey will begin from Pokhara
bus ride to Nayapul where the real trekking starts.
Day 1 – Nayapul
(1,050 m) to Tikhedunga (1,577 m)
Day 2 – Tikhedunga
to Gorepani (2,675 m)
Day 3 –
At Gorepani, ascend to Poon Hill
(3,180 m) for a panoramic view of the highest peak of the Annapurna Range. After which, trek to Tadapani (2,675 m)
Day 4 – Tadapani
to Chhomrong
Day 5 – Chhomrong
to Himalaya
Day 6 – Himalaya
to ABC (4,130 m)
Day 7 – ABC
to Bamboo
Day 8 – Bamboo
to Jhinudanda (1,750 m)
Day 9 – Jhinudanda
to Nayapul and to Pokhara
Day 1
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| At Nayapul Starting Point - where porters started to pack our bags into manageable package for them to carry. |
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| Walking through the Nayapul hamlet. Here a bottle of 1 litre of Mineral Water will cost Rp 20. And the price of water will progressively increase with altitude. |
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| Drum? Nope, these can be biodegradable chairs if not for the colourings. |
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| Crossing the first suspension bridge, the many which will to come |
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| Terrace fields - taking advantage of a hilly habitat. This can be seen in many countries which the local has to take advantage of their environment. Of course the plus point is that the excess water will flow to the lower terrace, provided water can be found at the highest terrace. |
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| This is what is being grown now in those terrace. Doesn't look like rice, more like millet or barley. |
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| Actual Starting point of our trek to ABC |
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| Crossing the bridge to the Registration Office (Climb Permit) |
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| A view of that mighty river from the flags draped bridge. |
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| Narrow path as we make our way to our first stop |
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| Cobwebs covered transformers. I wonder are the spiders attracted to this transformers because of the heat generated, thus the many insects that be trapped. |
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| One of our porter - he is much lighter than me, but his load carrying capacity exceed mine! |
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| Steps and more steps!!! |
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| Finally, we arrived at Tikhedhuga. Decent lodging. |
Day 2
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| More steps. |
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| Simple "kedai" (malay for provision shop) along the way. Trekkers's delight and indulgence of Lay's Potato Chips. |
Along this trail, we came across a funeral procession. The ladies carrying the white cloth is the advance party, for the corpse to follow. Along the way, they will throw handful of maize along the path of the procession. (I noticed that this was done at every turn, and there were many turns).
Finally, the corpse sat and strapped to a chair was being borne on the back of a relative. The rest of the mourners are seen to be carrying wood for the cremation to be done at the bottom of the hill, which will be the river.
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| Advance party |
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| The deceased on a chair, on the back of this young man. |
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| A typical brick, mortar and slate roof house that we will see very often along the way. By the evidence of the banana plant that we can see, the altitude is not high, and it was rather hot. |
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| A very common sight, harvested corn left hanging on the balcony to be dried |
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| Add caption |
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| In such terrain, these animals did a wonderful job of transporting essential goods between the different towns. Some of these are mules (sterile cross breed between horse and donkey), and some donkeys. Highly intelligent, they will come to a stop when they encountered obstacles along the way, unlike the yaks which will easily plough you down. |
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| This young boy was doing the family laundry with cold water. I wonder how many of our children are doing their own laundry much less the family, and with cold water. All I can hear will be "we have washing machine!" |
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| The many bridges that we have to cross. The painful fact is that we have to trod down near to the river before we can cross the bridge, after which will be the long upward climb to the trek. And therefore, we coined the word "Nepali flatness" whenever our guide told us that it will be flat from here onward. It simply means that no continuous climbing of up or down, but the occasional up and down. It was still little comfort to those poor knees. |
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| Nepali flat - this is deemed as flat terrain to the local. |
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| Quaint wooden cottage |
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| Finally, into the forest where the harsh sunlight is diffused through the canopies of the trees. Otherwise we were turning dark from all the UV exposure. |
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| Not too sure whether it is a weekly clearing, but definitely many bins were full. This reminds me of my trek in Bhutan, similar type of situation - on one hand they provide means for disposal, but they don't maintain the disposing points, such that the waste and litters get blown into the forest. |
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| Finally, Gorepani. |
Day 3
At Gorepani, we did a dawn walk up to Poon Hill. Today, it was just passed the Full Moon, but still the moon was round and bright.
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| Sunrise while walking up Poon Hill. |
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| Another view as we ascended up Poon Hill. The particles of the air, cause the light to spread in its colourful composition. |
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| Full Moon |
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| Crowded Poon Hill. Favourite destination to see the Annarpurna mountain range. In the background, the highest peak of this range, the Dhaulagari at 8,172m. |
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| Entrepreneur local has set up a tea shop on this hill, and to prevent competition from the trekkers themselves, thus this sign! Well it doesn't work. |
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| The prominent tower sitting atop Poon Hill |
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| At Ghorepani main street. |
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| Along the way, Annarpurna South 7,219 m will be our constant companion |
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| Dhauragali was also our constant companion |
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| Annarpurna South |
Day 4
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| Dharugali and Tukuche (6,920 m) |
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| Along the way, we came across this Langur monkey up on the tree. |
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| We are sojourner in a beautiful land. |
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| Going up, stress your thigh. Going down, strew your knees. I still prefer to stress the muscles than the joints. |
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| Bridge to Chhomlong |
Day 5
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| Human comfort - mattress being carried by the porters. |
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| These stones seemed very new - laid it a very orderly way. |
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| Add caption |
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| Seems like a tropical rainforest. |
Day 6
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| Only the leaves betrayed that it is Autumn Season. |
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| Thistles and Thorns |
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| Interestingly, the stone slabs have very clear seriation across the plain! Apparently, these rocks were formed from Sendiment settling in layers. And because of the collection of water in the crack, and with cyclical water freezing (water is the rare compound that expand on freezing) will cause the rocks to crack. This ideal shape can then be used for pavement and housings by the locals. |
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| Valley of Rocks |
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| Again notice the curious pointed formation of the rocks! |
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| Huge boulders are washed down by the glaciers |
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| A Beautiful cloud formation as we make our way to MBC and then ABC |
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| MBC |
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| Finally to ABC |
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| At last, we reached our destination on 12th Oct 2014 |
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| Before Sunset |
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| At Dusk |
Day 7
On this day, we started off as a clear day, but by late afternoon, the weather would have turned foul. By then, we would have reached our destination BAMBOO where we lodged for the night amidst the continuing rain.
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| Journey down from where we came |
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| Certain part of this river has iced over. |
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| A backward look on the majestic mountain. |
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| Even the woman can carry as much load as the man! |
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| Beautiful Valley - see how small we are! |
Day 8
It started to rain the night before, and continue to rain.
We hope to wait out the rain, but apparently our sense told us that this rain will not cease any time soon. Thus we set out our journey, not knowing that somewhere north, the Snowstorm has claimed many lives.
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| Most of us were soaked by the time we reached Chhomlong for lunch. |
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| Back to Chhomlong, the many steps that we will have to overcome. |
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| There is a hot spring in Jhinudada - and that was where some of us when after reaching the destination. It was a great feeling for sore muscles after the many days of walking. But be warn, there are plenty of leeches here. 5 of us went down, and 5 of us collected leeches when we returned to the Jhinu Lodge. |
Day 9
On this day, the sky was clear.
The sun shine, and we were oblivious to the disaster that has happened.
Many anxious messages will be waiting for us when we reached the hotel in Pokhara.
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| Finally, returning to where we started. Nayapul. |
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| Again the rock formation indicates sentiment that has settled in layers. |
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| One Last Look! |
Epilogue
Suggestions
to develop Nepal
Having seen the country, and the chaotic
way things are being done in this country.
I was just thinking, if I am the Prime Minister, what can I do to
develop this land.
I am a “greenhorn” in such area. But still I just want to give my “2 cents”
worth of thoughts. And to those who are
actively pursuing politics, then you should have a clear advantage over
me. Consider this as an exercise, as to
how you can run a country effectively, especially seeing that this is a Green
Field for your creativity and capability.
No point in wrestling from others who has
already built the nation foundation, and quiver over small little detail. Here is an opportunity; I believe that the
Nepalese government will welcome your suggestions.
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| City of Pokhara |
What is in Nepal?
- Plenty of water
- Resilient and Hardy workforce,
albeit not so educated
- Everest and other high
mountains that attract tourists
- To some – mystic and exotic
- Textile – especially the
pashmina
- Perhaps logging
For me, it will be
Transparency
in Revenue and Expenditure
For a country to grow, transparency is a
must.
Declare to all to see, the revenue that
have been collected from
- ·
14% VAT
- ·
Climbing Permit (it ranges with
the mountains that are being climbed)
- ·
Visa Payment (US$25 for 15 days
and US$40 for more than 15 days)
- ·
Taxation from Businesses and
Individuals
And declare to all to see, for the money
spent!!!!
However, if there is any inkling of
corruption, then the effort to progress will be stalled! There are many countries in such state, don’t
be like them!
Power
the Ways
The country is plagued with power outages,
be it in the city or in the mountain. I
have lost count to the number of times we have outages; and in certain mountain
lodges, there is no availability of power.
Even
the International Airport is not spared!
Thankfully the radar was still working on our last day when we were
flying out.
Power as in energy is essential. For the nation economy to develop, power is
needed to drive the many aspects of the industry.
Thus I am thinking, the Nepalese government
can form a joint venture with certain reliable country to develop this area to
first provide power, which will then drive the other industries.
Fortunately, this land is not short of
water, and there are plenty of rivers and mighty current flowing down from the
mountains. Can this be tapped for
energy, potentially yes. However, the
country is hard strapped for cash, and will always be a major issue!
The experts will have better opinion, for
me I will start at the plain for hydro-electric power. It will be very difficult to bring equipment
to the higher reaches of the river.
And possibly mini dam or hydro-plants to be
built, this will be decentralised to provide power to localized hamlets.
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| Electrician nightmare - which wire goes where! |
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| Richer individual has resorted to solar power. But this is not as efficient as other eco friendly power generation. |
Education
Frankly, this goes without giving much
reason.
For an educated population will be good
incentive for conglomerates and corporates to invest in the country.
The extra cash will provide the extra funds
and impetus for other development.
Systems
and Process
Not necessarily computerization, but define
proper codes and laws to streamline the chaos that we see. Be it the movement of vehicles on the road;
the haphazard manner that houses sprout out; the removal of unnecessary red
tapes etc.
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| Typical road connecting different towns. From the deterioration, most roads have not been maintained. The centre part may still has asphalt, but the sides have deteriorated where the underlying substrate of granites have escaped. And this will continue to degrade with each passing season. Yet, the people still have to find way to eke a living through this road! |
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Khamandu - the capital of Nepal.
Equally messy and somehow there is certain orderliness in the chaotic mess. |
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| The people will do whatever that is necessary to earn a few rupee. Be it laying of goods to be sold; begging; basking to tourist. Whatever... |
Sanitation, Waste Control, Healthcare …..
and many many more….
This is not new or revolutionary ideas,
just the same concept that saw Singapore coming out from a 3rd world
status to current status. Importantly,
the political will of the government to do what is right for the nation; and
the people support.
(Please note that I am apolitical, but I
have seen what my country has undergone in the last 50 odd years, I can only
say that we are blessed)
